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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.